Inside the Rock's Surprising History

Letter from Alcatraz September/October 2020

Before it was an infamous prison, Fort Alcatraz played a key role defending the West Coast
(Hans Blossey/Alamy Stock Photo)
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A view of Alcatraz Island in San Francisco Bay. Before it was a federal prison, the island was home to a 19th-century fort, remains of which are still found under newer buildings. (Hans Blossey/Alamy Stock Photo)

(Ken Feisel)

On the 8:20 a.m. boat to Alcatraz, no one gawks at the spectacular views of San Francisco along the shore of the bay. It’s cold and overcast, as is typical for late spring. The conversations are familiar and collegial—this ferry is limited to people who work on th

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