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On a squat peninsula along southern Albania’s Ionian coast, Porto Palermo Castle, a three-sided fortress of neatly dressed masonry fringed with notches for cannons, commands the sea from nearly 100 feet above azure waves. A picture-postcard spot, the castle evokes its builder, Ali Pasha of Tepelena, the infamous conqueror of huge swaths of today’s Albania and Greece. It’s a popular stop for thousands of tourists who descend upon the Albanian Riviera in search of an inexpensive seaside loun
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